Monday, October 8, 2012

A (Long Overdue) Dispatch from Home

This is not a post I ever wanted to write...so much so that it has taken me nearly two MONTHS to get the courage to get this out.  On August 20th, sick and sad in Suva, I bought a plane ticket from Fiji back to the States.  It took many teary skype calls with my parents and two rounds of antibiotics for me to reach this decision.  After 48 hours of difficult travel, I arrived in Columbus, exhausted and nearly unable to walk under the weight of my (not at all heavy) luggage.  My mom met me at the security checkpoint with the most welcome hug I have ever received, and she held my hand as I slumped towards baggage claim.  I visited the doctor that same day and the ER two days later.  At the end of all things, I had been diagnosed with and treated for: strep throat, a staph infection, a sinus infection, and a urinary tract infection/kidney infection.  I hadn't gotten better in Suva, even though I had visited two doctors, and although I seriously considered flying to Australia to recover, I ultimately decided to go home.  At this point, I was unable to properly care for myself, and I knew I needed care that extended beyond my immediate recovery.  Various bouts of sickness throughout my two months of travel had shown me that I was not strong enough for long-term budget travel at this point in my life.  This was an enormously challenging reality to face, but based on my final laundry list of diagnoses, I know that I was right to put my health first.

It took approximately three weeks for me to feel back to my normal self.  At this point, I was starting to get the itch -- I was ready to get back on the road.  But, I knew I had a lot of work to do before I could feel confident about my health.  I resumed the gluten-free diet I had struggled to maintain in Fiji and started feeling better overall; I had fewer headaches (I suffer from chronic migraines), my stomach felt more settled, and my skin began to heal (I had an eczema flair).  I had heard about a doctor at The Ohio State University Center for Integrative Medicine who helps patients like me; people who simply don't feel well on a regular basis and cannot for the life of them figure out why.  A week ago, I went to a seminar to hear this doctor speak about his practice.  At the end, I felt ready to make an appointment and start turning my health around.  Heavy rain was falling outside, so I decided to run from his office to my car, which was parked around the corner in another lot.  As I ran, my shoe buckled under me mid-step, and I fell. Hard. My right shoe skipped across the pavement, and my water bottle split apart and spun away.  The rain was pounding, my right foot was throbbing, and sharp pain was radiating from my left shoulder.  As quickly as I could, I collected my belongings and hobbled to my car, soaked through with water.  I immediately knew that my foot was at least sprained, if not broken, and I worried that my shoulder was dislocated.  Somehow, I managed to drive myself home, where my mom took over and drove me to the ER (second time in 1.5 months!).  After an intensely painful transition from my sopping clothes to a hospital gown, I got x-rays of my injuries.  The foot was broken, but the shoulder was not.  Still, crutches weren't an option, so I went home with a sling, a walking boot, and pain meds.

It's a week later now, and I am sitting here waiting around for my appointment with an orthopedist this afternoon.  My foot seems to be healing well, but I am nervous about my shoulder.  I have been gaining range of motion for the past few days, but when I move the wrong way, MAN does it hurt.  I am extremely hopeful that the doctor will diagnose me with a sprain...if it turns out to be something more serious, the possibility of surgery becomes very real.  I am way past ready to get back on the horse and resume my trip, but there are obviously still obstacles standing in my way.  Despite this, I am moving forward with plans to visit Asia this winter; first Taiwan to see my best friend from home, then Japan with my parents, then Vietnam with my Pop.  Yesterday, I got the amazing news that my travel insurance company has decided to reimburse my trip cancellation costs (whew!!!).  This means that I am in a great financial spot to take my winter trip....now I just need to work on getting a clean bill of health.  Wish me luck!  Pictures of Australia and Fiji are up on Picasa if you're interested!  As always, thanks for sticking with me.  Stay tuned for a Fiji post.






Thursday, July 26, 2012

Playing Catch-Up: Queensland Edition

Massive apologies for the internet silence!!  The last couple weeks have been wonderful but pretty jam-packed, and it has been really difficult to find good, cheap internet that I can use for more than a short period of time.  I have to admit, I am starting to regret my choice to leave my laptop at home.  Anyway, there's lots to talk about, so I guess I will get to it.  Since the end of our Red Centre tour on July 8th, Kelsey and I have been exploring Queensland, a large tropical state in Australia's northeast. Back in the States, we both agreed that we were most exited about this region, so we decided to spend most of our time together there.  We flew to Cairns, Queensland's biggest city and the "gateway to the Great Barrier Reef," on the evening of July 9th and spent the next day madly booking tours, accommodation, and attempting to rent a car so we could drive up the coast to remote Cape Tribulation.  Unbeknownst to us, we had arrived in Australia's premiere winter tourism region at the beginning of school holidays, which meant that our planning day culminated in us slumped over at a table eating gelato, exhausted and wondering what the heck we were doing.  Let's just say I will do A LOT of research before I book a car again.  We shelled out quite a bit of cash to get what I believe was the last car available in the entire region.  Unfortunately, because we spent so much time researching and making bookings, we didn't get to see much of Cairns, but the parts we did see while running around were beautiful.  It's a nice size, has a beautiful beach and lovely swimming lagoon, and has a nice, relaxed vibe.  We definitely enjoyed the abundance of palm trees and tropical fruit!

Our first destination after Cairns was Port Douglas -- a small town about an hour up the coast.  We had heard great things about the snorkeling and diving out of Port Douglas, and one of Kelsey's friends highly recommended the town itself.  We stayed at a backpacker resort, complete with hammocks and tiki torches, outside of town.  We decided it was a perfect place to start our "vacation" (we had made a pact not to think about planning until we returned to Cairns a few days later...this only partially came to pass).  After relaxing for a day, we hopped into our coveted car and headed further up the coast to the Daintree Rainforest. 
Driving in Australia was quite an experience; the steering wheel is on the right, and everyone drives on the left.  So confusing!  Kelsey and I took turns driving around the Daintree and Cape Tribulation region, which involved lots of winding roads and big speed bumps.  I am proud to say that we returned our car unscathed -- we each turned onto the wrong side of the road only once. Not too bad, I think.  We absolutely loved the freedom that came along with having a car and really enjoyed driving up and down the forested coast.  We were able to stop at abandoned beaches, roadside fruit stands, and took advantage of the many rainforest boardwalks we found along the way.  We stayed at a YHA hostel in the middle of the rainforest called Crocodylus.  I loved this place -- the staff were kooky, hilarious, and very knowledgeable, the vibe catered more towards families than backpackers (I personally enjoyed this change), and the scenery was beautiful.  This was my first time in a tropical rainforest, and I was completely enchanted. I loved falling asleep and waking up to rain against our tent roof and various animal sounds.  Apparently, the forest was abnormally quiet while we were there, but I still enjoyed it.  On our first night, I went on a night walk with Possum, a man who could walk thought the pitch black rainforest, know without a doubt where he was going, and tell you about every plant and animal along the way.  Although we didn't see any mammals on our walk, we saw several frogs, a golden orb spider  , and lots of fascinating insects.  On our second day, Kelsey and I drove up to Cape Tribulation, exploring beaches and rainforest walks.  Although I dropped my camera in the ocean (an unfortunate event whose after-effects have followed me all the way back to Sydney), my memories of this area are 100% positive.  I thoroughly enjoyed being in such a remote part of Australia, and I was definitely sad to leave after our brief stay.  I hope to return some day! 

We made the trek back down to Port Douglas, where we had made plans to take a day trip to the Outer Great Barrier Reef.  Kelsey and I were giddy with excitement the next morning.  As marine biologists, snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef was a huge dream for both of us.  Although we were fighting 25-30 knot winds and got battered around quite a bit, we were not disappointed by what we saw.  Our boat visited three different reef sites, all of which were incredible.  The visibility was great, and the sheer variety of fish and coral species was amazing.  We took pictures with a disposable underwater camera, but they absolutely don't do the reef justice.  It was absolutely beautiful!  We returned to our hostel exhausted but very, very happy.  Satisfied with our reef and rainforest experience, we headed back down to Cairns for a few more days.  Here, we took a day trip to Kuranda -- a touristy but lovely rainforest town with markets galore. We each bought a small aboriginal painting and indulged in a lunch of savory crepes.  Despite our biologist instincts, we also visited the Koala Gardens.....where we held a koala and fed kangaroos and wallabies by hand.  I know, I know!  It's horrible...and I suffered the consequences in the form of allergies later.  But, I cannot lie. We loved it.  Kelsey is now certifiably obsessed with koalas, and I have to say I love them too.  Not only are they adorable to watch, they are also calm and very sweet.  We may or may not have pictures of us with a koala named Harry.

Well, I have officially been using this free internet for a long time.  I'll write another update soon!  Kelsey and I are in Sydney now, getting ready to celebrate my birthday and her last night in Australia in the most epic way we know how: seeing Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers with a live orchestra and choir doing the score.  At the Sydney Opera House.  WOOHOO!!!  We are very excited.  Love to everyone at home -- thanks for reading!  

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Oh, Hey Australia!

I am sitting in an internet cafe in Sydney.  Australia.  What??!  I feel like I'm on another planet...the trees have no leaves, people are walking around in winter coats (it's freaking cold), and all the salads seem to have something called "rocket" on them.  WHERE AM I.  Today is my first full day in Sydney; my flight from Auckland, NZ arrived yesterday around noon. At that point, I was delerious from exhaustion (I barely slept a wink on the plane from LA to New Zealand), and my brain was in "if you do anything else but sleep, I will make your life very difficult" mode.  I barely even remember my layover in the Auckland airport...apparently, I bought a small kiwi bird stuffed animal and a coke.  Despite being in a debilitating fog, I do remember being completely taken with New Zealand just from my two hour experience.  Maybe it's just becase I could barely walk upright, but from the moment I stepped off the plane, I was mystified and enchanted.  There were panoramic posters of breathtaking landscapes lining the walkways, shops filled with merino wool clothing and abalone pendants, and maori and nature-insipired influences throughout the airport.  I have wanted to visit New Zealand for years, and I was surprised ro find myself overtaken by a desire to stay there intead of boarding my plane to Sydney.  Needless to say, when I have recovered a bit, I am going to tentatively consider adding NZ to my itinerary (if I can find a reasonible flight, that is). 

Onward to Sydney.  After spending a large part of today taking in areas surrounding Kings Cross (where my hostel is located), I can safely say I am a fan of this city.  It's clean, people are very friendly, and the layout is perfect for on-foot exploration.  This morning, I visited the Australian Museum -- a kind of Sydney version of the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C.  In short, I loved it.  The special exhibition on deep ocean life and exploration was extremely informative, and I was thrilled by the green tree frogs in the Australian wildlife section of the museum (I took a video...it will be up shortly!).  I was also very  impressed with the Indigenous Australia part of the museum, which is where I spent most of my time.  I came to Australia hoping to learn as much as possible about Aboriginal life, and I certainly left the museum knowing more than I had before.  I perused artifacts, read panels about the historically tense (to say the least) relationship between Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal Australians, and listened to interviews about dreamtime stories and vanishing languages. 

Bolstered by the excitement of new knowledge, I continued my exploration by attending the opening celebrations for NAIDOC (National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Week).  This was a completely unexpected and welcome coincidence, both in terms of date and location; the celebration was located in Hyde Park, which is adjacent to the Australian Museum.  I had seen banners advertising the event in the morning and picked up a brochure at the museum...I had no idea I would get to attend the festival this afternoon!  I got to taste several diffeent bush fruits as part of a traditional medicine panel, and I saw a ceremonial dance demonstration, compelte with didgeridoo.  I really, really loved it.  I took several pictures and videos, which I will post as soon as I am able (forgot to bring my USB cord to the internet cafe. Like I said...jet-lagged).  My plan for this evening was to visit the Royal Botanical Gardens, but as I sit here, I feel like I need to acknowledge and address the fact that my eyes are burning and my ability to form coherent sentences is quickly fading. I am feeling MUCH better than yesterday, but I'm still clearly struggling with the drastic time-change. Sorry for the lack of pics, but I wanted to check in to let you all know that I am alive and (mostly) well.  I am missing home, but for now, the excitment of being in a new place is carrying me through.  I will write again soon!

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Is This Real Life?

29 days stand between me and the beginning of my adventure.  This is as real as it gets, but I can't seem to truly comprehend that it's actually happening.  For four years, I have been dreaming of this -- I've gotten used to "the trip" being a comfortable, far-off fantasy.  Now, I have a plane ticket.  And vaccines.  And a backpack.  And (a little bit of) money saved up.  There's no more time for lazy afternoons surrounded by Lonely Planet books or watching travel videos on Youtube.  The only thing left to do is get ready and go.

Lately, I haven't been sleeping well.  I regularly wake up several times in the night, staring at the ceiling and wondering why my brain is in overdrive.  There is an underlying anxiety bubbling up to the surface now that my departure date is drawing near, and I guess it is manifesting itself in insomnia.  Not so awesome.  When I do sleep, I sometimes have travel anxiety dreams. Generally, they follow the same plot line: I leave home on some random day without preparing at all.  I show up in a foreign country (conveniently accessible by speedy dream plane) with no money, no plan, and a nagging feeling that I really shouldn't be there.  I'm know it's normal to experience anxiety before a big life change, but I wish I could go back to being blindly excited.  It would be much easier to leave home.

I have spent so much time looking forward to new adventures that I haven't given much thought to what it will be like to leave my current life behind.  Now that the time has finally come, I'm starting to realize just how jarring it will be to leave home.  I have been living with my parents since I returned to Columbus in September.  I've been sleeping in a familiar bed, eating dinner with my family, and generally falling back into the routine of "home" for nearly a year.  Since I've returned to Columbus, we've gotten a puppy who has been an enormous comfort and a wonderful addition to our family.  As a huge animal person, this will be a very hard goodbye.  As silly as it is, there's even a tiny part of me that's scared he won't recognize me when I come back.  I feel like it's important to emphasize the fact that my enthusiasm about my trip has not at all lessened; in fact, I often find myself grinning from ear to ear just thinking about how soon I will be on a plane bound for Australia.  I am so, so grateful that I have the incredible opportunity to pursue my boldest dream.  I just know now, more than ever, that making the dream reality -- getting on that plane -- won't be easy. 

Jumping into the unknown is not necessarily in my nature, but in recent years, I have pushed myself more and more to step out of my comfort zone.  I left a large, reputable university to attend a tiny, alternative school on the Maine coast.  I took a summer internship that launched me on a career path which, while not lucrative, completely embodies my greatest passions.  I sailed on a schooner for a week in the Gulf of Maine; I canoed down the Swanee River in southern Georgia; I spent weeks living on a 3-acre rock, happy as a clam; I conducted original research on killer whales in Washington and lived alone in a bare-bones apartment to do it.  Through these experience, I became more and more self-assured in my ability to work through discomfort in order to break new ground.  I know this trip will be the biggest test of all.  I am worried, I am scared, I am tingling with excitement.  I am standing on a precipice, and I'm not completely sure if I'm ready to fall.  I find some solace in this discomfort because I know it means my life is about to change in a big way; as much as change frightens me, in my life, it has always come with growth and discovery.  This trip will be a big leap...here's to new places, new people, new adventures.

“When your views on the world and your intellect are being challenged and you begin to feel uncomfortable because of a contradiction you’ve detected that is threatening your current model of the world … pay attention. You are about to learn something.” – William Drury

   

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Time for a Reality Check

Sooo it turns out that working a nearly minimum-wage job for 20 hours a week isn't quite enough to raise money for a year of travel (who would have thought, right?).  I've suffered some frustration at not being able to get more hours at my current job, and as I'm currently on a required 2 month leave from this position, I have to admit I'm getting nervous about money.  My first line of attack to lessen this stress was to re-work my trip itinerary with a rational and discerning eye.  My mantra throughout the planning process for this trip has been, "You can't do everything...you can't go everywhere."  With this in mind, I woefully slashed several countries from my list, effectively shortening my trip to 7-8 months instead of an entire year.  Yes, there are still a couple losses I'm grappling with (Fiji, Japan, China...), but the truth is, I needed to lighten up my itinerary anyway.  I've lowered my travel fund goal by about $5-7,000, which means it's actually quite possible that I'll get to leave in August (which is what I've tentatively been telling people when they ask).

Stay tuned for more updates on my pre-RTW planning process!  Here's hoping babysitting brings in the dough...

Saturday, November 5, 2011

My Favorite Budget Travel Resources

Throughout the long waiting period between my initial round-the-world dream and my actual trip, I've sated my desire for adventure by researching destinations.  I scour the web and the library for sources that will tip me off on where to go and when, cultural and natural highlights, costs for daily activities, weather, and transportation.  I check the Lonely Planet website like some people check Facebook  -- frequently and almost without conscious thought.  Granted, this is one of many travel philosophies; some people prefer to start their adventure with nothing more than a backpack and one plane ticket.  After that, whichever way the wind blows is where they'll end up.  Although I see the appeal of this lifestyle, I am (for now) a less daring kind of traveler.  I like the security that comes with knowing roughly what to expect when my plane lands in a frightening new place, and although I have no desire to micro-schedule my time in a country, I do like to pick out a few things to do/places to see so I have a rough itinerary.  Because of this, I've spent a lot of time reading/watching international travel resources, and I've emerged with a list of a few that have proved invaluable to me:

Books

Rough Guide: First Time Around the World, Doug Lansky
 This, as far as I'm concerned, is the one book every traveler should have when planning an extended trip.  It provides ample inspiration and great tips on how to make the most of your adventure.  There are entire chapters dedicated to costs/budgeting, packing, and planning itineraries.  The last 80 pages of this book provide continent and region-specific information, which can be useful for initial planning.  I have read portions of this book three times, and I'm still learning new stuff!  

Vagabonding, Rolf Potts
Definitely a book to read before you leave on your trip.  It's important to note that this is NOT a travel guide; it's about adopting a mindset that compliments the long-term travel lifestyle.  Rolf Potts is a talented writer and explorer who has chosen to share his revelations (both large and small) about the art of travel.  If your major motivations for backpacking include simplifying your life, immersing yourself in different cultures, and making connections with local people, this is a great book to read.  


Websites and Blogs

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com)
I don't know if I really need to explain this one...if you haven't looked at Thorn Tree (LP's travel forum), you should!  Fellow travelers can provide first-hand advice on almost any aspect of traveling, which can either save you from a nightmarish experience or lead you to forming one of your favorite trip memories.

Boots n' All (bootsnall.com)
I stumbled across this wonderful site when I first started researching RTW travel about four years ago.  Boots n' all is an independent online travel resource that feels less commercial than Lonely Planet and is mainly geared towards extended travel.  There are some wonderful articles about planning a RTW trip, all of which I would recommend reading.  Like Lonely Planet, Boots n' All has a great forum where you can ask/answer questions about pretty much anything.

Amanda and Jess's Year of Travels (www.amandaandjess.blogspot.com)
This blog is absolutely the root of my inspiration.  Four years ago, when I was a student at Boston University, I read an article about two recent grads who were traveling around the world.  The article provided the URL for a blog chronicling their trip, and once I clicked on it, I was lost for the rest of the night....and for about a week after that.  I couldn't stop reading!  Almost immediately, I started a "RTW" notebook, complete with maps and country-specific travel info.  To this day, I still enjoy looking back on the experiences of these two awesome girls for inspiration.  Check out their blog if you can!

A Little Adrift (www.alittleadrift.com)
An incredible resource chock-full of valuable info and inspiring stories.  Go forth and learn!


Legal Nomads (www.legalnomads.com)
Great stories, in-depth research, and beautiful pictures from a corporate lawyer turned world traveler. 

13 Months (www.thirteenmonths.com)
A great website chronicling the travels of newlyweds Grace and Susan.  They provide excellent advice on topics such as planning a safari, picking an island base for exploring Australia's Great Barrier Reef, and getting ready to go gorilla trekking in Uganda.  Plus, beautiful pics and videos.

Lost Girls (www.lostgirlsworld.com)
3 friends, 4 continents, 1 unconventional detour around the world.  Wonderful resource for female travelers!
There's a book, too!  

  
Films 

A Map for Saturday, Brook Silva-Braga
A unique documentary made by the very talented Brook Silva-Braga, a 20-something guy who quits his job to travel the world for a year.  I love watching this film when I need a little inspiration -- there's a ton of beautiful landscape footage and interviews that provide an inside look at the backpacker scenes in different countries.  Recommended!  http://www.amapforsaturday.com/trailer.html